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Delhiwale: Tughlakabad underground

India, June 19 -- The silent, secretive tunnel-like corridor crawls through facing rows of darkened cells. The underground place is truly a revelation. This is one of the most puzzling segments of Tu... Read More


Dublinwale: A tale of two readers

India, June 17 -- This is the story of two Dubliners. One is a professor, the other is an engineer. One is a former New Yorker, the other is an Irish native. Both share a passion for the same novel. ... Read More


Dublinwale: Door to door

India, June 14 -- Years after poet Ghalib's passing, the beautiful doorway of his last haveli in the Walled City was carefully dismantled from its surrounding wall of old-fashioned lakhori bricks, and... Read More


Dublinwale: Into a citizen's soul

India, June 13 -- After flying 5,000 miles from Delhi, this reporter landed two days ago in Dublin. The Ireland capital is the legendary setting of James Joyce's novel Ulysses, the great modernist nov... Read More


Delhiwale: Chai time with Joyce

India, June 12 -- Mirza Ghalib, Khushwant Singh, Maheshwar Dayal, Sir Syed Ahmed Khan, Ahmad Ali, H.C. Fanshawe , Quli Khan, H.K. Kaul, Percival Spear, RV Smith, Madhur Jaffrey, William Dalrymple, Sad... Read More


Delhiwale: His heap of broken images

India, June 10 -- While the sun beats, the dead tree gives no shelter, and the cricket no relief. The world is a heap of broken images. This evocation from poet TS Eliot's Waste Land can get uncomfor... Read More


Delhiwale: This way to Chhatta Aaga Jaan

India, June 7 -- The cramped street is marooned in afternoon quietude. All the house doors are shut. Old Delhi's Chhatta Aaga Jaan appears to have only a single non-residential establishment, named Be... Read More


Delhiwale: Paradise is in Sector 14, see!

India, June 6 -- Washed laundry is drying in the porch. The bungalow truly looks ordinary, here in Gurugram's Sector 14. A jaali door opens into a corridor illumined in the afternoon light. Spotting t... Read More


Delhiwale: On eating place-names

India, June 5 -- Certain street dishes in Gurugram are embedded with place-names. Sometimes, the name of such a dish conveys the origins of its vendor. Sometimes, the dish simply happens to be associa... Read More


Delhiwale: Death of a chai house

India, June 4 -- The chaikhana would stay open long after midnight. Its white lighting would continue to dimly illuminate a small portion of the darkened alley outside. While the air inside the tea ho... Read More